Defensible Space
Two factors have emerged as the primary determinants of a home’s ability to survive wildfire. These are the home’s roofing material and the quality of the “defensible space” surrounding it.

Use fire-resistive materials (Class C or better rating), not wood or shake shingles, to roof homes in or near forests and grasslands. When your roof needs significant repairs or replacement, do so with a fire-resistant roofing material. Check with your county building department. Some counties now restrict wood roofs or require specific classifications of roofing material.

Defensible space is an area around a structure where fuels and vegetation are treated, cleared or reduced to slow the spread of wildfire towards the structure. It also reduces the chance of a structure fire moving from the building to the surrounding forest. Defensible space provides room for firefighters to do their jobs. Your house is more likely to withstand a wildfire if grasses, brush, trees and other common forest fuels are managed to reduce a fire’s intensity.

The measure of fuel hazard refers to its continuity, both horizontal (across the ground) and vertical (from the ground up into the vegetation crown). Fuels with a high degree of both vertical and horizontal continuity are the most hazardous, particularly when they occur on slopes. Heavier fuels (brush and trees) are more hazardous (i.e. produce a more intense fire) than light fuels such as grass.

Mitigation of wildfire hazards focuses on breaking up the continuity of horizontal and vertical fuels. Additional distance between fuels is required on slopes.

Creating an effective defensible space involves developing a series of management zones in which different treatment techniques are used. See Figure 1 for a general view of the relationships among these management zones. Develop defensible space around each building on your property. Include detached garages, storage buildings, barns and other structures in your plan.

The actual design and development of your defensible space depends on several factors: size and shape of buildings, materials used in their construction, the slope of the ground on which the structures are built, surrounding topography, and sizes and types of vegetation on your property. These factors all affect your design. You may want to request additional guidance from your local forester or from the Georgetown Fire Department.  (See the Special Recommendations section below for shrubs, trees, etc.)

Defensible Space Management Zone

Figure 1: Forested property showing the three fire-defensible zones around a home or other structure.

Zone 1 is the area of maximum modification and treatment. It consists of an area of 100 feet around the structure in which all flammable vegetation is removed. This 100 feet is measured from the outside edge of the home’s eaves and any attached structures, such as decks.

Zone 2 is an area of fuel reduction. It is a transitional area between Zones 1 and 3. The size of Zone 2 depends on the slope of the ground where the structure is built. Typically, the defensible space should extend at least 75 to 125 feet from the structure. See Figure 2 for the appropriate distance for your home’s defensible space. Within this zone, the continuity and arrangement of vegetation is modified. Remove stressed, diseased, dead or dying trees and shrubs. Thin and prune the remaining larger trees and shrubs. Be sure to extend thinning along either side of your driveway all the way to your main access road. These actions help eliminate the continuous fuel surrounding a structure while enhancing homesite safety and the aesthetics of the property.

Figure 2: This chart indicates the minimum recommended dimensions for defensible space from the home to the outer edge of Zone 2. For example, if your home is situated on a 20 percent slope, the minimum defensible space dimensions would be 90 feet uphill and to the sides of the home and 104 feet downhill from the home.

Zone 3 is an area of traditional forest management and is of no particular size. It extends from the edge of your defensible space to your property boundaries.

Prescriptions
Zone 1
The size of Zone 1 is 100 feet, measured from the edges of the structure. Within this zone, several specific treatments are recommended.

Plant nothing within 3 to 5 feet of the structure, particularly if the building is sided with wood, logs or other flammable materials. Decorative rock, for example, creates an attractive, easily maintained, nonflammable ground cover.

If the house has noncombustible siding, widely spaced foundation plantings of low growing shrubs or other “fire wise” plants are acceptable. Do not plant directly beneath windows or next to foundation vents. Be sure there are no areas of continuous grass adjacent to plantings in this area.

Frequently prune and maintain plants in this zone to ensure vigorous growth and a low growth habit. Remove dead branches, stems and leaves.

Do not store firewood or other combustible materials in this area. Enclose or screen decks with metal screening. Extend the gravel coverage under the decks. Do not use areas under decks for storage.

Ideally, remove all trees from Zone 1 to reduce fire hazards. If you do keep a tree, consider it part of the structure and extend the distance of the entire defensible space accordingly. Isolate the tree from any other surrounding trees. Prune it to at least 10 feet above the ground. Remove any branches that interfere with the roof or are within 10 feet of the chimney. Remove all “ladder fuels” from beneath the tree. Ladder fuels are vegetation with vertical continuity that allows fire to burn from ground level up into the branches and crowns of trees. Ladder fuels are potentially very hazardous but are easy to mitigate. No ladder fuels can be allowed under tree canopies. In all other areas, prune all branches of shrubs or trees up to a height of 10 feet above ground (or 1/2 the height, whichever is the least).

Figure 3: X = crown spacing; Y = stem spacing. Do not measure between stems for crown -- measure between the edges of tree crowns.

Zone 2
Zone 2 is an area of fuel reduction designed to reduce the intensity of any fire approaching your home. Follow these recommended management steps.

Thin trees and large shrubs so there is at least 10 feet between crowns. Crown separation is measured from the furthest branch of one tree to the nearest branch on the next tree (Figure 3). On steep slopes, allow more space between tree crowns. (See Figure 4 for minimum recommended spacing for trees on steep slopes.) Remove all ladder fuels from under these remaining trees. Carefully prune trees to a height of at least 10 feet.

Small clumps of 2 to 3 trees may be occasionally left in Zone 2. Leave more space between the crowns of these clumps and surrounding trees.

Because Zone 2 forms an aesthetic buffer and provides a transition between zones, it is necessary to blend the requirements for Zones 1 and 3. Thin the portions of Zone 3 adjacent to Zone 2 more heavily than the outer portions.

Isolated shrubs may remain, provided they are not under tree crowns. Prune and maintain these plants periodically to maintain vigorous growth. Remove dead stems from trees and shrubs annually. Where shrubs are the primary fuel in Zone 2, refer to the Special Recommendations below.

Limit the number of dead trees (snags) retained in this area. Wildlife needs only one or two snags per acre. Be sure any snags left for wildlife cannot fall onto the house or block access roads or driveways.

Mow grasses (or remove them with a weed trimmer) as needed through the growing season to keep them low, a maximum of 6 to 8 inches. This is extremely critical in the fall when grasses dry out and cure.

Stack firewood and woodpiles uphill or on the same elevation as the structure but at least 30 feet away. Clear and keep away flammable vegetation within 10 feet of these woodpiles. Do not stack wood against your house or on or under your deck, even in winter. Many homes have burned from a woodpile that ignited as the fire passed.

Locate propane tanks at least 30 feet from any structures, preferably on the same elevation as the house. You don’t want the LP container below your house — if it ignites, the fire would tend to burn uphill. On the other hand, if the tank is above your house and it develops a leak, LP gas will flow downhill into your home. Clear and keep away flammable vegetation within 10 feet of these tanks. Do not screen propane tanks with shrubs or vegetation.

Figure 4: Minimum tree crown and shrub clump spacing.
% slope	Tree Crown Spacing	Brush and Shrub Clump Spacing
0 -10%	10´	2 1/2 x shrub height
11 - 20%	15´	3 x shrub height
21 - 40%	20´	4 x shrub height
> 40%	30´	6 x shrub height

Dispose of slash (limbs, branches and other woody debris) from your trees and shrubs through chipping or by piling and burning. Contact El Dorado County Burn Information (Placerville 530-621-5897 or 866-621-5897 South Lake Tahoe 888-332-2876) for information about burning slash piles. If neither of these alternatives is possible, lop and scatter slash by cutting it into very small pieces and distributing it over the ground. Avoid heavy accumulations of slash. Lay it close to the ground to speed decomposition. If desired, no more than two or three small, widely spaced brush piles may be left for wildlife purposes. Locate these towards the outer portions of your defensible space.

Zone 3
This zone is of no specified size. It extends from the edge of your defensible space to your property lines. A gradual transition into this zone from defensible space standards to other management objectives you may have is suggested. Typical management objectives for areas surrounding homesites or subdivisions are: provide optimum recreational opportunities; enhance aesthetics; maintain tree health and vigor; provide barriers for wind, noise, dust and visual intrusions; support limited production of firewood, fence posts and other forest commodities; or grow Christmas trees or trees for transplanting.

Figure 5: Minimum tree spacing for Zone 3.
Tree Diameter	Average Stem Spacing Between Trees
3	10
4	11
5	12
6	13
7	14
8	15
9	16
10	17
11	19
12	21
13	23
14	24
15	26
16	28
17	29
18	31
19	33
20	35
21	36
22	38
23	40
24	42

Specific requirements will be dictated by your objectives for your land and the kinds of trees present. See Figure 5 for the minimum suggested spacing between “leave” trees. Forest management in Zone 3 is an opportunity for you to increase the health and growth rate of the forest in this zone. Keep in mind that root competition for available moisture limits tree growth and ultimately the health of the forest.

A high canopy forest reduces the chance of a surface fire climbing into the tops of the trees and might be a priority for you if this zone slopes steeply. The healthiest forest is one that has multiple ages, sizes, and species of trees where adequate growing room is maintained over time. Remember to consider the hazards of ladder fuels. Multiple sizes and ages of trees might increase the fire hazard from Zone 3 into Zone 2, particularly on steep slopes.

A greater number of wildlife trees can remain in Zone 3. Make sure that dead trees pose no threat to power lines or fire access roads.

While pruning generally is not necessary in Zone 3, it may be a good idea from the standpoint of personal safety to prune trees along trails and fire access roads. Or, if you prefer the aesthetics of a well-manicured forest, you might prune the entire area. In any case, pruning helps reduce ladder fuels within the tree stand, thus enhancing wildfire safety.

Mowing is not necessary in Zone 3.

Any approved method of slash treatment is acceptable for this zone, including piling and burning, chipping or lop-and-scatter.

Special Recommendations
Brush and shrubs
Brush and shrubs are woody plants, smaller than trees, often formed by a number of vertical or semi-upright branches arising close to the ground. Brush is smaller than shrubs and can be either woody or herbaceous vegetation.

On nearly level ground, minimum spacing recommendations between clumps of brush and/or shrubs is 2 1/2 times the height of the vegetation. Maximum diameter of clumps should be 2 times the height of the vegetation. As with tree crown spacing, all measurements are made from the edges of vegetation crowns (Figure 3).

For example: For shrubs 6 feet high, spacing between shrub clumps should be 15 feet or more apart (measured from the edges of the crowns of vegetation clumps). The diameter of shrub clumps should not exceed 12 feet (measured from the edges of the crowns). Branches should be pruned to a height of 3 feet.

Grasses
Keep dead, dry or curing grasses mowed to less than 6 inches. Defensible space size where grass is the predominant fuel can be reduced (Figure 5) when applying this practice.

Windthrow
Certain locations and tree species are especially susceptible to damage and uprooting by high winds (windthrow). If you see evidence of this problem in or near your forest, or have these tree species, consider the following adjustments to the defensible space guidelines.

Adjustments: If your trees or homesite are susceptible to windthrow and the trees have never been thinned, use a stem spacing of diameter plus five instead of the guides listed in the Zone 3 section. Over time (every 3 to 5 years) gradually remove additional trees. The time between cutting cycles allows trees to “firm up” by expanding their root systems. Continue this periodic thinning until the desired spacing is reached.

Also consider leaving small clumps of trees and creating small openings on their lee side (opposite of the predominant wind direction). A professional forester can help you design the best situation for your specific homesite and tree species. Remember, the likelihood of a wildfire running through the tree tops or crowns (crowning) is closely related to the overabundance of fuels on the forest floor. Be sure to remove downed logs, branches and excess brush and needle buildup.

Figure 6: Minimum defensible space size for grass fuels.
% slope	D-space size (uphill, downhill, sidehill)
0 - 20%	30’
21 - 40%	50’
> 40%	70’

Maintaining Your Defensible Space
Your home is located in a forest that is dynamic, always changing. Trees and shrubs continue to grow, plants die or are damaged, new plants begin to grow, and plants drop their leaves and needles. Like other parts of your home, defensible space requires maintenance. Use the following checklist each year to determine if additional work or maintenance is necessary.

Defensible Space and FireWise Annual Checklist

Trees and shrubs are properly thinned and pruned within the defensible space. Slash from the thinning is disposed of.

Roof and gutters are clear of debris.

Branches overhanging the roof and chimney are removed.

Chimney screens are in place and in good condition.

Grass and weeds are mowed to a low height.

An outdoor water supply is available, complete with a hose and nozzle that can reach all parts of the house.

Fire extinguishers are checked and in working condition.

The driveway is wide enough. The clearance of trees and branches is adequate for fire and emergency equipment.

Road signs and your name and house number are posted and easily visible.

There is an easily accessible tool storage area with rakes, hoes, axes and shovels for use in case of fire.

You have practiced family fire drills and your fire evacuation plan.

Your escape routes, meeting points and other details are known and understood by all family members.

Attic, roof, eaves and foundation vents are screened and in good condition. Stilt foundations and decks are enclosed, screened or walled up.

Trash and debris accumulations are removed from the defensible space.

A checklist for fire safety needs inside the home also has been completed.

Firesafe Landscaping
El Dorado County Fire Resistant Landscaping (see bottom of page for info on fire resistant plants, shrubs and trees.)

A fire resistant roof is the most important fire safe preventive measure to ensure home survival in a wildland fire. Second most important is landscaping. In addition, in El Dorado County's varied topography, home location can drastically increase danger from wildfire. Locating a structure on a ridge at the top of a ""fire chimney" can create fire drafts that will make some homes extremely difficult to protect. Often home location may have been decided years prior to your ownership. Only landscape maintenance can reduce fire danger to these homes.

Of the various fire factors, landscaping is one of the most easily altered fire safe components. In more urban situations, choice of plant materials can greatly alter fire potential. In rural areas, management of existing native vegetation can greatly reduce fire danger. In either case, maintenance to remove dead branches, to mow dried grass, and to remove pine needles and leaves is crucial. Irrigation will generally reduce flammability, but may not be practical or economically feasible. Plants should be adapted to the elevation, soils, soil depth, soil moisture and shade found on your site.

Flame length (which determines danger to structures) is determined by both the mass of flammable vegetation and the continuity (both horizontal and vertical). The horizontal flame path can be broken by spacing the trees or shrubs 10-15' apart, separated by cleared areas, walkways, rock or other low fuel materials. Vertical fuels can carry ground flames up into tree crowns. Cutting lower branches and thinning or removing shrubs and small trees below the canopy of mature trees will protect them from the "fuel ladder" effect. Plant species with finely divided leaves and dry, oily characteristics can be the most dangerous. The thick bark of mature conifers will resist most fires if the canopy can be protected.

After disturbance, aggressive wildland weeds may invade. Some are dangerously flammable (e.g. Scotch Broom) and many can be very uncomfortable (e.g. Star thistle). Even some landscaping plants can become serious fire problems (e.g. Pampas Grass). Other exotic weeds may crowd out native plants and degrade habitats (e.g. Ailanthus, Himalayan Blackberry).

When planning your fire safe activities, consider potential wildlife habitat. In low, damp drainages with little fire danger, consider maintaining continuous vegetation for wildlife corridors. Animals need to hide from predators while traveling for food, water and mating. A variety of native species allows diverse wildlife species to survive and thrive among habitations.

Within the fire-safe zone around a home (minimum 30', 100'+ on slopes), clumps of vegetation should be separate (10 to 15' apart), and all mature trees thinned from below to eliminate ladder fuels. " Flashy" fuels (dried grass and leaves) on the ground, should be separated from lower limbs. Remember, during a wild fire, firefighters will need room to work with crews and equipment. If you make their job easier, your home may survive.

Talk to Georgetown Fire Department about fire safety. Check with UC Extension or your local ag department about invasive weed species. Consult the Sunset Western Garden book, Master Gardeners, and local nurseries about plant selection. Clear back roadside brush on access routes, and mark roads for firefighters. Rural living requires responsibility on your part.

Fire Resistant Plants, Shrubs and Trees

For an extensive list of native trees, shrubs, herbs, and grasses with ratings of fire resistance, drought tolerance, value to wildlife, and other useful information, Click Here.

For Defensible Space Landscaping in the Urban/Wildland Interface: A Compilation of Fire Performance Ratings of Residential Landscape Plants, Click Here.

For More Information on Defensible Space, visit the Fire Safe Council.